Éowyn’s refugee outfit is one of those costumes that combines simplicity and beauty. It’s also a perfect costume when you are looking for something that would be fairly easy to make in time when you need a costume for a Ren Faire, convention, or celebration fast!
Recently I made the sword that she used to kill the Witchking of Angmar. I thought, why not make her outfit too!
Therefore, there are two tutorials in this blog post. One for the sword in the first part and the second about how to make the dress.
I tried to make this tutorial easy to follow so that even sewing beginners out there could make it.
For a quicker overview of the whole sword build, check out the video version.
CRAFTING THE EOWYN'S SWORD
Supplies + tools:
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3d printer + ABS filament
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*optional resin printer + resin
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sanding tool (electronic or sandpapers)
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sandpapers with variable grid types (from 180 to 1000)
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filler spray (I use thick-layer filler from Chamäleon)
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automotive body filler (2 pt)
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super glue + glue activator
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wooden/metal rods 4 mm
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saw
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primer
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black glossy spray paint
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chrome spray paint
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acrylic paints (black, white, yellow, brown, red, and gold). I recommend using Liberator Gold from Citadel because it helps to sell that brass look.
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metal pigments
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pigment binding medium
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brushes
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color palette
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water bucket for sanding and a smaller water cup for painting
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paper tape or masking tape
Process steps in order:
1. File preparation + Slicer
2. Printing
3. Gluing the hilt
4. Gluing the blade
5. Filling
6. Sanding
7. Spray filling
8. Wet sanding
8. Filling + priming
9. Choosing base and finishing colours
10. Spraying
11. Painting details
12. Tada!
Step 1: Preparing the Files
I started by downloading all the STL files. You can find them here 🌟
Then I imported them all into PrusaSlicer, but you can use any slicer you like :).
You can also open the 3MF project file, where all parts are already arranged for the best possible printing results 🙌.
I recommend keeping the tall blade parts on a separate print bed because mixing them with shorter parts would increase the risk of failure. Believe me :D
I used a layer height of 0.15mm to make the sanding process easier.
Organic supports with a density of 40%. Infill pattern: Gyroid with 10% density. 
Step 2: 3D Printing
I printed nearly all the parts in ABS filament. (blade, hilt)
ABS works nicely for cosplay props because you can easily sand it and post-process it well. After printing, remove any supports and clean up the parts before assembly.
The only parts that I printed separately on a resin printer were the horse hilt parts and the pommel. However, it is surely possible to print them on an FDM printer with a low setting of 0.10mm layer height, and they will still look fabulous.
You will just have to be more patient with sanding these. :)
Step 3: Gluing the Hilt
For the hilt assembly, I used regular gel superglue. If you are as impatient as me, you can also save some time using a glue activator. This solution makes your glued pieces bond faster within seconds of drying time.
STEP 4: Gluing the blade
Glue the whole blade before the sanding. Don’t forget to insert the reinforcing rods inside to make your sword withstand some swings.
Step 5: Filling in the seams
After the glue dries, you will need to fill in the seam gaps.
I used an automotive body filler because it is very firm when dry and sands well. Almost like a wood filler. I used to use a wood filler quite a lot earlier; that was before I found out that it doesn’t handle low temperatures well – it cracks. And you don’t want your finished prop cracking. So I recommend using anything else but a wood filler. 😀
Once the seams are filled and the solution dried – sand it all down so that the blade is smooth again. Don’t rush this step because even the smallest of structural errors will be visible.
After the smoothness quality check, haha – spray the blade with a filler again. Once it dries, apply a layer of primer spray to prepare the surface for spray paint.
Primer gives the paint something to grip onto and also helps reveal any remaining imperfections. If something looks bad in primer, it will probably still look bad in the final paint.
So if needed, sand it again before moving on.
Step 6: Sanding
* Just ignore me giving all the printed pieces a first round of sanding before gluing and filling them together.
I did it that way, but if I could go back, I would just glue your blade together before sanding and filling it. You would save yourself from extra sanding.
The 1st round of sanding your pieces removes the most visible layer lines and rough spots. It also prepares the surface for filler, which works better when the part is already cleaned up a little.
You do not need to make everything perfect yet. This is just the first pass. :)
There will be more sanding required to make the blade smooth.
Step 7: Spray Filling
Once you have finished your first rough sanding, spray all with a thick layer spray filler. I used this yellow can from Chamäleon.
Remember that it is better to build the surface gradually with some layers of the filler instead of trying to fix everything with one heavy coat.
Step 8: WET sanding
Once your pieces are dry, we will go ahead and sand all pieces again with gradually finer sandpaper. Remember that you always go from lower numbers of grit to higher. Let’s say you use 180 grit paper and build your way with each pass to 1000.
This phase is crucial so that your blade’s surface is shiny and smooth. You can always test the smoothness with your fingertips.
Step 9: Choosing the base colour and finishing colours.
Now this is where things get interesting. I spent quite a lot of time thinking about what base and what type of silver colours to use so that the blade would look realistic.
I ran several tests on both a white glossy base and the black glossy base. You can see how all techniques compare in the photos below or check the video where I moved the light around for reflectance and did a deeper dive into all techniques used. (video link)
The winner of these tests was a simple chrome spray on either a black or white glossy surface, which surprised me because I thought I would end up with something more intricate. :D
Step 10: Spraying
Spray the prop with a glossy black spray paint. The glossy black base also gives the metallic paints a good base for the right shine.
When the blade dries, it is time to shine – I mean, to spray the blade with shiny chrome paint!
Before you do so, however, use paper or masking tape to cover the hilt.
Step 11: Painting details
The very final step of our process belongs to the details.
I like to paint my props so they look as if they were used and aged, but you might take a different approach and skip some parts of this.
For the brown leather hilt parts, mix a bit of red, brown, and black.
After painting these parts, you can add a glossy topcoat, or a pigment medium would do the same as it dries into a transparent, glossy layer.
As you can see, different hilt parts are made of different metals, or at least there are different colours. One looks like aged brass while the other reflects light like gold.
For the brass bits (pommel and 2 hilt Rohirrim horses), I used a model paint called Liberator Gold from Citadel with a hint of black.
For the gold bits, I used a metallic powder pigment and yellow acrylic (you can substitute that with a pigment medium).
As you are finished with this, you can add shading to areas with crevices or places where shadows would naturally occur.
This is optional, but you can also paint rust along the blade to give additional age and realistic weight to the sword.
Step 12: TADA!
Your epic sword is done! Now you are ready to take on the Witch King
MAKING THE COSTUME
Supplies for the costume
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Brown linen fabric link
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Blue linen fabric link
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Sewing machine
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Matching thread colour code
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Needle for hand sewing
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Fabric scissors
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Pins or sewing clips
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Measuring tape
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Embroidery threads
colours:
2x yellow: Mulina 1721 lot. 4785
2x light yellow: Mulina 745
2x gold: e3821 dmc
2x lighter blue: 2124 DMC
2x blue: 2125 DMC
2x silver: e415 DMC
3x gold metallic thread (I used one from Barkonie “Karolina”)
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Iron
Step 1: Choosing the Fabrics
Firstly, we need to select fabrics. I studied the references and bonus materials on the Lord of the Rings extended-version DVDs and made some rough guesses. I believe that the original costume was sewn with silk fabrics, something like raw silk that has texture and less shine. However, for cost efficiency, I chose to go with linen instead.
I picked this blue stone-washed linen fabric because I liked the subtle texture, which I hoped would give the finished dress a slightly organic look.
Then I picked up this brown linen for the outer dress.
You can use different shades as the reference pictures, as the reference pictures for this outfit don't offer an exact colour code for each colour due to different light conditions, grading, or film stock used for photos.
I recommend checking out this page for photo references:
http://www.costumersguide.com/eowyn_refugee.shtml
I honestly like how the blue fabric drapes.
Step 2: Making a sewing pattern for the blue dress
Once my fabrics arrived, I had to figure out the sewing patterns. I know this step might be nerve-wracking for sewing beginners out there, so I will try to explain it as simply as possible.
I didn't want to waste fabric for the mockups, so I tried to use gardening foil, and it worked nicely. It is also very cheap! You can basically use any nonwoven fabric to save money at this stage.
Take your mockup fabric, 1 T-shirt, and 1 basic tank top. Both the T-shirt and tank top should fit you well (not too tight, not too loose).
Place your T-shirt on the fabric and trace it without sleeves with a pencil. Once you do that, take your tank top and place it in the same position as your T-shirt before and trace it as well.
The blue lines in this pattern should be the same size.
This will be the front part of the bodice. You will have to do this process again for the back part of the bodice.
Before cutting, add a 1-2 cm sewing allowance around all dotted lines of the pattern.
Let’s figure out the rest.
Skirt
The skirt of this dress is made from ¼ of a circle (this will be attached to the bodice at the back) + 2 triangle-like shapes (at the front).
The skirt part should have enough fabric to fall nicely, but it does not need to be huge. The important part is the long, soft silhouette.
Draft the quarter-circle skirt. If you don’t know how, check some video tutorials on yt.
Drafting the triangles:
For the skirt area, you will also need 2 triangular panels of fabric.
Measure half the circumference of your waist (or hips if you want the dress to sit lower), moreover, measure from this height down to get the length of your skirt (green line in photo)
Split the waist measurement in half, and you get measurements of the purple lines (as seen in photo)
Try to draw the triangular shapes like this:
sleeves
To make the sleeves, measure around your shoulder area, then measure the length of your arm.
The shape of the sleeve will look like this:
Trace the sleeve pattern twice – or more if you have 2+ arms haha. Don’t forget to add a 2cm seam allowance to all edges.
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Now that we have all the pattern pieces, we will attach them with pins to see how the dress fits. This is the moment when you will know where to add a bit of fabric or where you will be taking in some cm to make it smaller.
Step 3: Tracing + cutting
If you are happy with the fitting, it is time to trace all the parts over our real fabrics using fabric chalk or marker. Just don't forget to add seam allowances!
Once you are done with it you can cut out all shapes.
Tip: In case you are running out of fabric, you can absolutely just cut the piece even if it's incomplete and then cut the rest of the fabric and attach it to fill the original pattern.
This happened to me on one of the sleeves, so I just cut the missing piece separately and then attached it to the sleeve pattern so that it would be complete.
Step 4: sewing the blue dress
Alright, now we have all the pieces needed. So we can start sewing. You can sew your dress by hand or use a sewing machine if you have one.
Tip: You can, of course, pin all the parts together before sewing to check if it all fits as you want.
Tip 2: I recommend sewing all pieces together by hand with a running stitch just to see if all parts fit you well.
Follow the pictures for the order of sewing. 🙂
Steps:
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Connect all bodice pieces so that you end up with a complete front and back part
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Attach both bodice parts by sewing the shoulders together
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Sew in sleeves
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Sew the sides of the bodice as well as the sleeve side seam.
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Connect triangular panels to the bodice's front
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Attach the skirt to the back of the bodice. I found out that my back bodice part was a bit bigger, so i folded the fabric 4 times (i marked it with blue)
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Sew together skirt and front panels
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For convenience, you can sew in a zipper (YES, it is accurate too!). Eowyn's SA dress had a hidden zipper. I marked where the zipper would be with a green marker.
You will need to cut the front panels a bit to match the skirt's length. :)
Finishing seams
For a more professional look, I recommend pressing all seams flat with an iron and sewing them by hand like this:
Step 5: Hand-Sewn Details
Once we have our dress complete, it's time for some embroidery.
This step is optional; however, I wanted to reach a certain accuracy, so I continued with the details.
The neckline is highlighted with a simple chain stitch.
There are 3 areas with embroidery – the collar area + bodice + sleeves.
Since all the photos and references look blurry and it is nearly impossible to see the exact stitches used, I created my own pattern. The V-shape pattern is repeating itself horizontally across the upper bodice (starting at the collar) and sleeves. After some serious zoom-ins, I believe that this pattern is made out of leaf-like embroidery.
Here is how I did it.
Step 1: Use a gold metallic thread (or any thread you like!) Make the 'V' patterns using a simple running stitch
where you want your embroidery to be. (Judging by the reference, the dress has embroidery on the whole length of the sleeves, front and back bodice, and possibly the sides of the bodice too.)
Step 2: Pierce the fabric on the side where you want your leaf to be, ideally near the thread line.
Step 3: Make a loop
and run your needle through that loop and pull.
Step 4:
Step5:
Now repeat the process until you are happy with the embroidery areas.
As you can see from the photos, I only managed to complete the front bodice and upper halves of sleeves so far. I’ll continue sewing in a calm season of winter, haha.
Step 6: Braiding the Arm Cords
The braided cords around the arms were one of my favourite details.
Let's take a look at the braided details of the costume.
Eowyn has thin blue braided cords wrapped around her biceps, and her brown dress is tied at the sides with a yellow braided cord.
Here is a picture of the threads I used. The exact colours I used are at the beginning of this article in the Supplies section.
Blue cords
I made these cords from a simple 3-strand braid (light blue x blue x silver). The length of one braid should be approx. 3 m
*If the strands get tangled while braiding, you can divide the length into two parts and tie them together with a knot after braiding.
Gold cords
As I mentioned, these hold the brown outer dress together. In the reference images, these braided cords are slightly thicker than the blue ones. We will therefore braid three simple braids into one larger braid.
I chose a combination of three colours: yellow, light yellow, and gold. I specifically wove in the gold to create the impression that Eowyn truly belongs among the high-ranking women of Rohan, and her dress should reflect that as well.
The length of the gold cords for my figure was 2 metres.
****If you want to save some time, you can use ready-made cord, but braiding it yourself gives you more control over the thickness, colour, and texture.
Eowyn's blue dress's final look
Sewing the brown overdress
The brown overdress is much easier than the blue dress.
You can again use a tank top for the base measurements of the bust area. Get your measurement from the shoulders to where you want the overdress to end.
Trace this pattern with your own measurements onto your fabric 2 times for the front and back. Sew it along the yellow dotted lines.
*If the dress is tight for you to move comfortably, you can sew in a wedge on both sides of the lower skirt.
Wedge shape and where to sew it:
Step 7: Tiny sleeves
You can also add tiny sleeves at the shoulders. It is a detail, but a screen-accurate one.
To attach these tiny sleeves, you will be fine with hand stitching.
Step 8: Finishing the brown dress
Polish the seams by pressing them flat and sewing them by hand as we did with the blue dress.
We will also need to do some finishing around holes in the dress where the cord will go. Basically sewing eyelets.
Take brown thread and sew around the holes by hand.
Step 7: Final Fitting
Before calling it finished, I tried the full outfit. It does not need to be perfectly symmetrical or polished. Actually, keeping it a little natural helps the whole outfit feel more like something from Middle-earth.
Final Thoughts on the whole project
This was a very nice sewing project because the outfit is not overly complicated, yet it is iconic.
Using stone-washed linen gave the dress a unique texture, and combining machine sewing with hand details made the process manageable without losing the handmade look.
If you want to make an Éowyn cosplay but do not want to start with armour or complicated embroidery, this dress is a great project to begin with (even if you skip the embroidery part here). It is simple, comfortable, and very rewarding once the layers come together.
Good luck with creating your own cosplay :)!
